Before it was Questa, this village in northern New Mexico was Rio Colorado. Its story begins in the early 1800s, when the country along the river was a remote and exposed place to try to build a permanent home.

Around 1815, a Spanish military post stood here, and a land grant brought 50 families to the settlement. A land grant was a serious undertaking: families were expected to settle the land, farm it, and hold it. From the very beginning, Rio Colorado was a community built by families putting down roots in demanding country.

Every great mountain drive has a beginning, and for travelers heading east from Questa, it begins on NM 38. The highway was named by 1912 for the Questa-to-Eagle Nest route, a road tying the village to the Moreno Valley. More than a century later, it remains the way east: out of Questa, into the canyon, and up toward the high country.

Few great industries begin with a case of mistaken identity, but Questa's mining story does. In Sulphur Gulch, the ground held a soft black mineral and a yellow earth, and for a long time nobody knew what they really were. The black mineral was thought to be graphite, and the yellow earth was thought to be sulfur, the very substance that gave the gulch its name.

In Questa, a church is more than a building. San Antonio del Rio Colorado Church has long stood at the heart of village life, a place where families gathered for worship and marked the passages of life together. That is why what happened around 2008 hit the community so hard: the historic adobe church partially collapsed.

One of Questa's oldest stories lies quietly beneath its VFW Cemetery. There, on a hilltop at the mouth of Red River Canyon, above the Red River and Cabresto Creek, sits El Pueblito, an ancestral village whose heaviest years of life ran from 1150 to 1225, some eight centuries ago.

Look up from Questa and you will see two high sentinels of stone: Sentinel Peak and Flag Mountain. Their names are not accidents of poetry. They remember a time when the survival of a small settlement depended on watchful eyes posted high above it.

The settlement was founded as Rio Colorado in 1842, after a grant to 35 families. Thirty-five families is a village, but a small one, and those families were planting their lives in an exposed place. Everything they built, planted, and raised depended on their ability to see trouble coming in time to respond.

Before 1915, getting over Red River Hill was an ordeal that wagon drivers planned their whole trip around. The old road climbed at grades as steep as 27 percent, far beyond what a loaded wagon could safely descend on its own brakes. Drivers coped the frontier way: they cut a log, chained it behind the wagon, and dragged it down the mountain as a brake, trusting friction and timber to keep them alive.

Some history lives in books, and some of it you can walk. The Questa History Trail belongs to the second kind. It is a living history project built by the people of Questa themselves, turning the streets and plaza of their own village into an open-air story of where they come from.

By 1941, the molybdenum workings above Questa had chased their high-grade veins deep into the mountain, about 260 meters down. Ore that deep is expensive to move, water down there is expensive to drain, and air is expensive to keep fresh. The mine's answer was ambitious: drive a tunnel a full mile long, north from Red River Canyon, straight to the deepest workings.

Every community has a figure who seems to stand at a crossroads in its story, and for Questa that figure is Francisco Laforet. He was a French-Canadian trapper, born in Montreal, whose life carried him from Canada to the mountains and rivers of northern New Mexico, where his name became woven into the founding of the village first known as San Antonio del Rio Colorado.